Chinese Chess (Xiangqi): An Insider’s Guide for Travelers Exploring China’s Most Fascinating Board Game
Chinese chess, known as Xiangqi (象棋), is a centuries-old strategic board game that holds a significant place in Chinese culture. While many travelers to China are drawn to its rich history, scenic landscapes, and modern cities, Chinese chess offers a unique, culturally immersive experience that provides insight into Chinese philosophy, strategy, and daily life.
This article will explore the ins and outs of Chinese chess, its history, how to play, and why it should be on your radar when traveling through China. Whether you’re an experienced chess player or someone who’s just curious about this fascinating game, we’ll provide you with expert-level insights and a traveler’s perspective on how you can engage with this ancient game while visiting China.
Table of Contents
What is Xiangqi (Chinese Chess)?
Xiangqi, commonly referred to as Chinese Chess, is one of the oldest and most popular games in China, with roots tracing back to the Han Dynasty (206 BCE – 220 CE). Its name, “Xiangqi,” translates to “Elephant Game” in English, reflecting the ancient strategy-based nature of the game.
Xiangqi shares similarities with Western chess, but its board and pieces differ. The game is typically played by two players, with one controlling the red pieces and the other controlling the black pieces. The primary objective is to checkmate the opponent’s General, the equivalent of a King in Western chess.

A Brief History of Chinese Chess
Chinese chess has evolved over centuries, with origins in military strategy games. It is said to have been influenced by Liubo, an ancient game played during the Han Dynasty, which is considered one of the earliest forms of strategy games in Chinese culture.
The game as we know it today emerged during the Tang Dynasty (618-907 CE). It was originally popular among the Chinese nobility and military officers, serving as a tool for honing strategic thinking. Over time, Xiangqi spread to different parts of Asia and has remained an essential part of Chinese culture ever since.
The Board and Pieces of Chinese Chess
Xiangqi is played on a board divided into 9 vertical columns and 10 horizontal rows. Unlike Western chess, which uses a square grid, the Xiangqi board is marked with a river separating the two sides. This river plays a significant role in the movement of certain pieces.


Here are the main pieces and their roles:
• General (将/帅): Similar to the King in Western chess, the General must be protected at all costs. It moves one point horizontally or vertically but cannot leave the confines of its palace (a 3×3 square).


• Advisors (士/仕): They are the General’s protectors and can only move one step diagonally within the palace.


• Elephants (象/相): These pieces can only move two steps diagonally and cannot cross the river. They are used to protect key areas of the board and have a defensive role.


• Horses (马/马): Like the knights in Western chess, horses move in an “L” shape but are blocked by other pieces if there is an obstacle in their path.


• Chariots (车/車): The most powerful pieces in the game, chariots move horizontally and vertically across the board.


• Cannons (炮/砲): Cannons move like chariots but can only capture an enemy piece by jumping over one intervening piece. This unique capturing mechanism makes the cannon an exciting and tactical piece to use.


• Soldiers (兵/卒): The soldiers start on the third row and move forward one step at a time. After crossing the river, they can move sideways, making them a versatile piece as they advance.


How to Play Xiangqi (Chinese Chess): Basic Rules
1. Setting Up the Board
Each player begins with 16 pieces, which are set up in two rows. The General, Advisors, Elephants, and Horses are placed in the palace, while the Chariots and Cannons are placed at the edges of the board. The Soldiers are placed in the third row.
2. The Objective
The goal of the game is to capture the opponent’s General. This is known as checkmate. Like in Western chess, players also try to protect their General from being captured.
3. Movement of Pieces
Each piece has specific movement rules. For example, the General can only move one space at a time within its palace, while the Horse moves in an “L” shape. The Chariot moves horizontally or vertically across the entire board, making it the most powerful piece on the board.
The Cannon is unique in that it can only capture an opponent’s piece by jumping over one piece. This makes it a powerful yet tricky piece to use effectively.

4. Special Rules
• The River: The river divides the board into two halves. It affects the movement of certain pieces. The Elephant cannot cross the river, while Soldiers can move differently after crossing it.
• The Palace: The General and Advisors are confined to the 3×3 grid called the palace. They cannot move outside this grid.
5. Endgame
The game ends when a player is unable to move their General out of check or capture the opponent’s General. Similar to Western chess, there are strategies that involve trapping the opponent’s General.
Why Should Travelers Care About Chinese Chess?
Chinese Chess offers an opportunity to dive deeper into Chinese culture and philosophy. As a traveler in China, learning to play this ancient game will enrich your understanding of Chinese values like strategy, patience, and respect for tradition.
1. A Unique Cultural Experience
While in China, you’ll often see groups of elderly men gathered in parks or squares, engaged in intense games of Xiangqi. Observing these games can give you an insight into Chinese daily life and social customs. It’s a common sight in local parks and public spaces. If you’re a fan of strategy games, you may even be invited to join in for a friendly match.
2. Engage with Locals
Chinese chess serves as a great icebreaker. Many Chinese people enjoy talking about the game, and you might find yourself engaged in a game while in a local park or tea house. It’s a fantastic way to connect with locals, practice Mandarin, and understand Chinese social dynamics.

3. Learn the Philosophy Behind the Game
The game’s strategic nature reflects Chinese philosophy and thought. The careful calculation of moves and counter-moves mirrors the principles of Yin and Yang and The Art of War, which are central to Chinese culture. By playing the game, you can begin to understand the emphasis on harmony, balance, and strategy that pervades Chinese culture.
How to Learn Xiangqi While in China
For travelers interested in learning Xiangqi, here are some ways to get started:
1. Visit a Local Park or Tea House
As mentioned earlier, many locals enjoy playing Xiangqi in public parks. Some parks even have dedicated tables where you can join in a game. In cities like Beijing, Shanghai, and Chengdu, you’ll find many places where both beginners and experts play. Don’t be shy to ask for a lesson from a friendly local.
2. Join a Xiangqi Tournament
If you’re in China for an extended period, consider participating in a local Xiangqi tournament. These events, held in various cities, are a fun and competitive way to immerse yourself in the game and interact with local players.

3. Use Digital Tools and Apps
For those who don’t have access to in-person players, there are plenty of apps and online platforms to learn and practice Xiangqi. Xiangqi Master and other mobile apps offer tutorials, practice boards, and online matches against players worldwide. This can be an excellent way to learn the rules and tactics before heading to China.
4. Visit a Xiangqi Museum
In some cities, you can visit specialized museums or exhibits dedicated to Chinese chess. These museums often showcase the game’s history, different pieces, and famous players throughout history.
FAQs: Your Chinese Chess Questions Answered
Is Xiangqi Hard to Learn?
Not really. Basics take an hour; mastery takes years. Start with Soldiers—they’re simple. My first game was clumsy, but fun.
Can I Buy Sets Outside China?
Yes, Amazon and eBay sell them. Prices range from $15–50 USD. In China, they’re cheaper and authentic.
Are There English Resources?
Plenty. “Xiangqi: Chinese Chess” by Jim Png is a solid book. YouTube channels like Xiangqi Liveliness offer free lessons.
Conclusion: Why Chinese Chess Should Be on Your Travel Agenda
Whether you’re a seasoned chess player or a casual traveler, Chinese Chess (Xiangqi) offers a rich, immersive experience that goes beyond just the rules of the game. It reflects China’s deep philosophical roots and gives insight into the culture and values of this ancient civilization. During your travels in China, taking the time to learn about and even play Xiangqi can make your journey much more enriching.
Engage with the locals, play a game in a park, or visit a Xiangqi museum to experience this aspect of Chinese culture first-hand. No matter how much time you have in China, make sure you set aside a moment to dive into the world of Xiangqi—it’s a cultural experience you won’t forget.
